PS We booked a hostel in UB for the Nadaam night--a double room with bathroom for $20. All the Lonely Planet recommended hostels are fully booked, but we found some other random place that is right near where we need to pick up our tickets in UB so it shouldn't be too hard to find. Even if it's bad it won't matter much as we'll be out looking at Nadaam after we fly back from the Gobi and then leaving for Beijing early the next morning. Looks like we'll dorm it the first night in UB so that we can get a sense of whether our "tour operator" (who I think is more like some Mongolian guy who speaks English and can arrange things) is really the go-to guy.